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nail education
The nail industry doesn’t always explain what goes on your hands. I do.
Here you’ll find clear, honest breakdowns of the products I use, how they’re made, how they’re applied, who they’re best for, and other nail information so you can make informed choices without the guesswork.
Acrylic
Acrylic is one of the most well-known nail enhancements, and it’s also one of the strongest. It’s made by combining a purple liquid called monomer with a colored or clear acrylic powder, which hardens when the two are mixed and creates a durable layer over your natural nail or a tip. The acrylic is placed and shaped by hand, then allowed to fully harden before being filed and refined into its final shape.
Not all monomers are the same, though, and this is where the nail industry can get a little shady. Some salons cut corners by using an illegal and unsafe monomer called MMA because it’s cheaper and harder, but it can seriously damage the natural nail and make removal painful. High-quality, legal monomers are designed to be strong without sacrificing nail health when used correctly.
Because of its strength, acrylic is best for people who are rough on their hands, work with them daily, or tend to break softer enhancements. It’s a great option if you want long length, solid structure, and something that can truly hold up, as long as it’s applied with safe products and proper technique.
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Brands I use: V Beauty Pure, Denti, Ladybug Nails
Polygel
Polygel is a hybrid enhancement that sits right in the middle of acrylic and hard gel, combining the strength of acrylic with a lighter, more flexible feel. It comes as a thick, moldable gel that stays exactly where it’s placed until it’s cured under a lamp, which allows for very controlled, precise application. I apply polygel by hand, sculpting the nail just like acrylic, then curing it to fully harden before shaping and refining.
Because polygel is lighter and has more flexibility, it’s a great option for someone who wants added strength without the heaviness of traditional acrylic. It’s especially good for clients who like structure and length but prefer a more natural feel, or for those who are a little gentler on their hands and want something durable without being overly rigid.
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Brands I use: Makarrt Pro, Mochi Gel
Soft Gel Extensions (Gel-x)
Soft gel extensions are full-coverage gel tips that are bonded to the natural nail with a gel glue to add length and shape. You may have heard them called Gel-X, but Gel-X is just a brand name. “Soft gel extensions” is the actual category, and there are many high-quality options out there, not just one brand. What matters most is the product quality and how it’s applied, not the name on the box.
These extensions are pre-shaped and made from a flexible gel material, then secured to the nail using a gel adhesive and cured under a lamp. Because they’re lighter and more flexible than acrylic, they tend to feel very natural on the hands.
Soft gel extensions can be filled using polygel, builder gel, or acrylic, but once a different product is used to fill them, they’re no longer considered soft gel extensions. At that point, the service becomes a fill of the new product type instead. If you want to continue wearing soft gel extensions specifically, they need to be fully soaked off and reapplied rather than filled.
Soft gel extensions are best for someone who wants length with a clean, lightweight feel and a more natural look, especially if they aren’t extremely rough on their hands and prefer a softer, flexible enhancement
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Brands I use: Model Ones, DND
Builder gel
Builder gel is basically the superhero of nail enhancements. It;s thick, sculptable, and ready to give your nails strength and structure. Unlike soft gels, it comes in a bottle or jar, and I apply it directly to your nail, hand-sculpting it into the shape, curve, and length you want before curing it under a lamp.
This is a favorite for anyone on a healthy, natural nail journey. If your nails have been through some rough patches such as breaking, peeling, or just feeling weak. Builder gel helps grow them out while adding back strength. It’s flexible enough to move with your nails but still durable, so you can get length and smoothness without worrying about damage. Unlike soft gel extensions, builder gel can be layered, shaped, and customized over time, making it perfect for building up healthy, beautiful nails while keeping them strong behind the scenes.
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Brands I use: IBD, Canni (hypoallergenic), Gaoy
what is contact dermatitis?
Contact dermatitis in the nail world is basically when your skin freaks out after touching certain chemicals. It can cause redness, itching, irritation, and peeling but no single product or brand can magically give you dermatitis on its own. Online, you’ll see it used as a scare tactic to make people feel like doing their own nails is dangerous, or that they have to spend hundreds on salon services or “safe” products. The same goes for HEMA, which is just another common chemical found in many gel products. People love to throw the word around like it’s some cursed ingredient, but it’s really just what helps gels stick and cure properly. Reactions usually happen when products aren’t used correctly, cured fully, or cleaned up after application. Proper usage, good technique, and a little care for your skin are what actually prevent contact dermatitis, not a fancy brand name or miracle formula.
As someone with a background in science, trust and believe that I have a higher level of understanding of SDS sheets and chemical interactions. I would never expose clients to a dangerous product, so you can feel safe in my hands!
How much damage is too much?
So how much damage is too much? There are a few situations where it’s best to hit pause before getting any nail enhancements. If you have onycholysis (see picture), which is when your natural nail starts lifting from the nail bed, that nail isn’t stable enough for enhancements and needs time to grow out. The same goes for nails that have lost multiple layers from ripping off old enhancements or over-filing—if your nail is too thin, anything applied on top can make the damage worse. Fungal infections or multiple open wounds on or around your nails are also a no-go, because putting products on compromised nails can make things worse or spread infection. In any of these cases, it’s best to wait until your nails have healed, grown out, or been cleared by a medical professional before adding any length, strength, or enhancements. Your natural nails need a solid foundation to stay healthy, and rushing it only leads to more damage down the road.
Why don't you offer russian manicures?
I don’t offer Russian manicures and for good reason. This technique involves aggressively removing the skin around your nails, including live tissue, to create a super-clean cuticle line. In South Carolina, that’s actually illegal! Anything that removes live skin is considered a medical procedure and is outside the scope of practice for a nail tech. It’s not just about “doing it carefully.” If a salon claims they can do it here, that’s a major red flag, because they’re breaking the law and putting your nails and skin at serious risk for infection, scarring, or other complications. There are safe, professional alternatives that give you clean, polished nails without ever touching live skin, and that’s what I stick to so your nails and cuticles stay healthy.
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If you want a Russian manicure, go to Russia!